Yet both the province and provincial capital of this northernmost region of Thailand largely defy preconceptions. Mountains skirt its western borders with Burma (Myanmar) and Chiang Mai Province while another range paralleling the Mekong to the southeast culminates in spectacular Phu Chee Fah but otherwise much of the landscape is predominately flat agricultural land. Chiang Rai City itself, though actually predating its larger, southern neighbour, has a busy, modern air and is far from the mini-Chiang Mai you may imagine.

The mountains to the west, including Doi Mae Salong, Doi Chang and Doi Tung (doi meaning mountain in the northern dialect if you hadn’t guessed) are truly spectacular but descend abruptly into a wide valley, broken with occasional low hills and scattered karst outcrops that stretch to the province’s eastern border with Laos—the Mekong River. This is the location of a clutch of riverbank towns; touristy, kitsch Sob Ruak—officially designated the Golden Triangle; charming Chiang Saen—ancient city and now river port for China trade, and cutesy Chiang Khong—guesthouse-laden entry point into Laos and embarkation stage for the popular boat journeys to Laos’ ... Travelfish members only (Full text is around 2,100 words.)