While theoretically connected to roads, the Chindwin River remains the main point of access for just about everyone, and with (water levels permitting) multiple boats daily passing in both directions – to Homalin in the north and to Kalewa and Monywa in the south – it isn’t too difficult to get here or leave. Do bear in mind you’re travelling on river time here, and the boat will come when it does and will leave when it will – don’t hold your breath to a timetable.

The centre of the village is wedged between the river and a narrow ribbon of rice fields, which fill the plain between the river and the jagged mountains that rise up to the west. These eventually rise to form the foothills of the international border between Burma and India – an area that remains largely off limits to foreign visitors.

Back in the village, as with most centres in Burma you’ll find a wet and dry market and plenty of tea shops, and there’s also a well shaded, and quite scenic, riverfront area. The central part of the village has a number of restaurants along its bank with a Chinese spot screening international football and a couple of Burmese restaurants doing solid fare. Breakfast mohinga is best taken at the tea shop on the northern corner (off the river) of the ... Travelfish members only (Full text is around 400 words.)