This unsullied remote corner is a terrifically relaxing spot to kick back and enjoy traditional village life. Here terraced rice fields nudge the black sand beaches and pretty doe-eyed cows wander the shores as fisherman haul in their catch, young boys fly kites on the sea breeze and in the distance you can hear the sound of the warbling mosque.

Medewi is a Muslim enclave in this predominantly Hindu island, so you’ll feel more like you’re in Java or Lombok than Bali. And to resort to cliche, the locals, well they’re a congenial lot. We were wandering along by the beach and not only did a local farmer shout the usual hello hellos, he made a beeline over so he just shake our hand—friendly folk indeed!

It is true: Medewi is a surfer hangout, but like Balian half an hour to the southeast, it’s also a stupendously beautiful area. The beach starts with smooth boulders and pebbles that are a bit of a challenge to scramble across. After the river, the pebbles give way to a jet black volcanic sand similar to what you see in Lovina—the difference is in Medewi there are no touts trying to sell you wooden dolphins. In fact there are no ... Travelfish members only (Full text is around 600 words.)